regardless of the intended use, the fence post should be securely anchored in the ground to provide good support. when setting a post in sandy soil, additional attention is required to make sure
setting posts. put the template back on layout. if you have a slope, block it up level. set a post in the corner of the template be careful not to move the template; this can be tricky then pivot it plumb using the template as a kind of fulcrum. plumb the post on both sides, then bomb a few screws in the template to hold it still.
in 1996 in almost identical clay soil conditions my father and i set about 20 treated 4x4s to build a pergola over a walkway. this was our process: 1. dug a 3 foot hole. 2. set and leveled the posts 3. dumped a bag of dry quickcrete in the hole 4. filled the hole with water fast forward 20 years later:
mow the grass down to 2 inches or less in height. mark the post locations for your fence with a can of spray paint. use a shovel to excavate the first 6 to 12 inches of clay soil at your first post hole location. make the diameter of the hole approximately 4 to 6 inches larger than the diameter of the posts youll be installing.
re: setting posts for a pergola soil and plant growth kind of organically speed up the rotting process, so concrete helps protect the wood as well as offering support. or, here's another method.
for a very small pergola with only 4 to 6 feet between posts, 4×4 supports will work. for anything larger, though, the 6×6 stock will not only offer a beefier look and greater carrying capacity, but 6×6 also resists the twisting associated with the more spindly 4x4s. make sure the post material is rated for ground contact.
1. dig holes and pour in concrete footing to about 2 inches above grade. set a metal base anchor/mount simpson cb66 is most popular suggestion before concrete sets in. attach the posts to the base mount. advantage - lasts longer because post is not in contact with soil/concrete so moisture is not an issue.
so you get post breaking at the soil/grade level. so my answer is to seal the bottom 4 foot of your posts, with driveway sealant. put a little gravel at the base of your hole. add your concrete, and fill to a cone shape above ground. any input is appreciated. its a new method for me.
wooden posts that have been set directly into soil are likely to begin rotting as soon as their base absorbs some water. once a wooden post has started rotting, your only option is once a wooden post has started rotting, your only option is to throw it away and sink a new post.
post in ground techniques. unless its a very short term structure, avoid wood touching earth. wood that touches earth will become soil, its just a question of time. moisture speeds the process and most of what has been described here is only a delay tactic. climate and site conditions can have a big impact on longevity.
step 2. securing the posts to the ground. if you have good, solid earth - choose the first option. if you want your pergola positioned over a patio or concrete choose the second option as the fixing post is secured by using a hammer drill and masonry bit to drill through the hard surface and then secured using the special masonry bolts provided.
soil conditions for deck footings. before you can calculate the size of your footings you will need to know what kind of soil is present in your yard. most soils can be classified into three categories: gravel, sand, and clay. gravel: this type is primarily composed of small stone pebbles that you can see easily with the naked eye.
fence post typically rot near the ground, i believe because the repeated wet dry cycle. i have read if using concrete to slope it away from the post and above grade, so this is what i have done. actually a 6x6 free standing pergola post i am building, but same concept
as soon as the hole is properly dug, set your post or the footing. if you are just dropping a pergola post into the hole, back fill soil around it after having made sure it is plumb. if you plan on having a cement footing under the post, you will need a day for the cement to set up before you can place the pergola post on top.
pergola post information includes the size and installation of the posts that are the legs for your pergola. it is important that your pergola is level and well anchored in order to ensure proper installation and structural integrity.
setting posts in concrete tools : digging tools, drill, level, bucket, gravel, post must be rot-resistant wood, rust-resistant metal, or an appropriate synthetic material , 2 x 4 braces, wood stakes, wood screws.
most posts are placed by first digging or boring a hole to frost depth, pouring concrete into the hole to form a footing, letting this concrete set, placing the post on the concrete and
after the concrete in the post holes has set, and the beams and rafters are cut, cut the tops of the posts to an even height. for 8-foot tall pergola we cut the posts to measure 7-1/2 feet from the ground. the rafters on top will eventually add another six inches to the height.
how to install pergola posts. because a 6×6 post these are 10 in height is heavy, its a good idea to set up some roller supports, both in the front and the back of your planer, for weight help. one person can guide the post into the planer, and a second person can help to pull the wood out of the planer.
pergola and arbor footings for hard and soft soil. the groundplug easy mounting system tm offers the right pergola and arbor footing for both hard and soft soil. just refer to the groundplug twister tm chart to find the appropriate product for your landscaping project.
when you cement your pergola posts into the ground you are not only providing solid stability to all the legs of your garden structure - you are also encasing the part of the post that enters into the ground in cement - to help protect it from bugs and moisture - so that the strength and durability of the lumber is least compromised as possible over time.