rafters: notch rafters at each side of 2x4'x10' rafters, 12inches inside and 1.5 inches width with 1 3/4 depth, this notch will be used to sit on 2x6 beam.
the notches should be 3×2 inches. on top of these rafters, cut a notch for the upper rafters to fit into. cut notches on the bottom of the upper rafters for every lower rafter. place all rafter notches an equal distance apart. cut the notches first with a circular saw, then a saber saw. clean out the corners with a hand saw and chisel.
the templates show how to cut the notches for rafter tails that sit flush with one another. this is what they look like. to achieve this style, the notches are cut to half way.
the notches are cut part way at 1' instead of the 2' halfway mark in order to make the top rafter sit slightly higher than the supporting rafter. the third rafter style is a very easy way to build a pergola: no notching required
building your pergola. we cut out two notches that are 2 deep on each end of the purlin with a jig saw. this is so they can fit down on the header boards. it not only give a beautiful finished look to the piece but also eliminates the need for costly and unsightly hardware used to attach boards together.
'a' - building a pergola with notched posts as in 'a' gives a much smoother finish, the exact size of the beam has been cut out from the top of the post providing a perfect fit - a couple of stainless steel lag screws, washers and nuts secure each connection. 'b' - building a pergola without notches gives the result of the beam jutting out from the line of the posts - as in the center graphic
as the pergola takes shape, you'll notice that the roof looks familiar. it has all the elements of a normal pitched house roof -- joists, rafters and purlins. the only difference is that the pergola roof is flat and has no shingles. continue to attach and secure the purlins, repeating the previous steps. cut and install rafters. learn how
each of the rafters for the timber shed roof requires a bird's mouth cut, and here's a quick explanation of what that it is and how you do it
i used 150×50 2×6 rafters for a more bulkier look. it was a simple task with a hammer and chisel to clean out the notches. i had previously done the same to the top of the beams where the rafters are to be fixed. the tops of posts are trimmed and shaped, the beams and rafters are cut and notched, now the whole structure can be assembled.
notching a post for a deck or pergola. to adapt these cool, old turned posts to a new pergola, i needed to notch the tops for support of a haunch that will hold other pieces of the pergola. i thought i'd do a quick video to show some of the tricks i use, to get a nice, clean, accurate notch on a post. i want that cut to be nice, and
sizing the birdsmouth. for example, the irc allows the ends of rafters to be notched as much as one-fourth their depth r802.7.1 , but on a shallow-pitched roof this can result in a seat cut that's wider than the top plate. when that happens, roof loads are carried by the toe rather than the heel of the rafter, reducing the rafter's bearing capacity and increasing
to me using my frail logic it seems that as long as the bottom edge of the rafter is fully supported by the plate it shouldn't matter how deep the cut. i understood that the intent of the code was to prevent splitting of the member at the top of a notch , but splitting would require that the portion below the split line would have to be free
notching pergola beams. were taking a 2 notch out of our 4 x 6 beams, or a third of the material depth. use a speed square to guide your saw along the outside edges of the cut, and then go to town in between. the more you score it, the easier it comes out with a chisel.